Watering techniques for coffee seedlings when growing

Baby coffee plants in pots need even moisture but are very afraid of waterlogging. Instructions for watering according to the germination stage, oyster leaf plants, plants with 2-4 pairs of leaves and the stage of training plants before planting.

Summary: In the nursery, incorrect watering is more likely to cause mass death of coffee seedlings than lack of fertilizer. Lack of water causes the sprouts to dry and the oyster leaves to shrivel; Excess water causes gourds, root rot, and root rot fungus. This article explains how to water seedlings in each stage, how to check potting moisture and reduce water schedule before planting to keep the plants strong.

Applies to: Robusta coffee nurseries in the Central Highlands, including growing seeds in pots and caring for seedlings before planting.
Duration: From sowing seeds until 6-8 month old plants leave the orchard.
Difficulty level: Basic. It is important to water evenly and check the pots every day.
Estimated additional costs: 1-3 million VND per 10,000 bulbs for water, irrigation and system maintenance in a nursery.

Principles of watering young coffee plants

Baby coffee trees have small roots, completely located in the pot. Potting soil dries faster than orchard soil, but it can also easily become waterlogged if the potting medium is squashed. Principle:

Keep evenly moist, don't let the gourd dry out.
Do not water vigorously to dislodge seeds or expose roots.
Irrigate early morning or late afternoon.
Reduce watering when the weather is cloudy or it rains for a long time.
Increase ventilation if the surface of the bulb stays wet for a long time.

The goal is for the bulb to be moist but not soggy. When you gently squeeze the potting soil, it feels sticky and does not leak water.

The stage after sowing until germination

At this stage, the seeds need stable moisture:

Irrigate lightly with a fine spray or small bead.
On hot days, you can water 1-2 times.
Do not let the water spray dislodge the soil layer covering the seeds.
Keep the pergola covered with 50-60 percent sun.

If the surface of the bulb becomes crusty after many waterings, you need to loosen it very lightly or adjust the watering nozzle. The surface of the gourd is crusty, making it difficult to put the sprouts on.

Scallop leaf stage

When the tree opens its leaves, the roots are still weak:

Irrigate moderately and evenly throughout the bed.
Avoid leaving water in the pot overnight.
Check for collar fungus: dark roots, fallen trees.
Pick up seriously diseased plants, don't let them spread in the beds.

At this stage, you should not fertilize with dark water. The roots are young and easy to burn.

Stage 2-4 pairs of true leaves

The tree begins to grow stronger:

Irrigate according to potting moisture, usually once a day when the sun is stable.
On cool days or when the bulb is still moist, you can space it out.
Water enough so that the water penetrates to the bottom of the bulb, not just the surface.
Check a few pots in the middle of the bed and the edge because the edge usually dries faster.

If the young leaves turn yellow and the plant grows slowly, don't rush to water it continuously. It is necessary to check whether the roots are waterlogged, potted or lacking nutrition.

Plant stage with 5-6 pairs of leaves

This is the stage when the tree prepares to meet export standards:

Maintain even humidity, avoid letting the plant wilt again.
Gradually increase the light to harden the plants.
Irrigate at the base, avoiding prolonged wet leaves.
Check the roots at the bottom of the pot, avoid leaving over-aged plants in the pot.

A tree that is too pampered with water and heavy sun protection will become soft and easy to shock in the orchard.

Train the plants before leaving the orchard

10-15 days before planting:

Reduce shading slowly to help plants get used to the light.
Reduce watering slightly, don't let the plant wilt but don't keep the pot too wet.
Stop fertilizing with strong nitrogen fertilizers.
Stunted plants, pests, twisted roots, broken pots.

Training trees helps them withstand sun and wind better after planting. You should not take the plant from the cool, humid pergola to the hot orchard right away.

Check bulb moisture

Simple way to check:

Choose 10 pots at the beginning of the bed, middle of the bed, and end of the bed.
Pick your finger 2-3 centimeters deep or gently squeeze the top soil.
If the top is dry but the bottom is still moist, you don't need to water much.
Soggy gourds and a sour smell at the bottom are signs of waterlogging.

You should check before watering, do not water at a fixed time regardless of the weather.

Irrigation water quality

Nursery water needs:

Not salty, not heavy alum.
Do not mix too much mud to clog the nozzle.
Do not use polluted stagnant pond water.
If using well water, you should check the pH and salinity in the suspect area.

Bad water causes yellow seedlings, weak roots and increased fungus in the pot.

Common mistakes

Water a lot for fear of dry plants: pots become waterlogged, roots lack oxygen, and mycorrhizal fungus increases.

Strong jet irrigation: pops seeds, erodes pot surface, exposes roots.

Don't reduce water when it's raining and cloudy: the bulb stays wet for a long time, the disease spreads quickly.

Do not train the plants before leaving the orchard: plants will be exposed to sunlight and lose their leaves.

Only look at the surface of the bulb: the surface is dry but the bottom of the bulb may still be wet. Needs deeper examination.

Nursery Watch

[ ] Germination rate.
[ ] Number of trees with collar fungus.
[ ] Irrigation schedule based on sunny/rainy days.
[ ] Poll moisture before watering.
[ ] Proportion of trees meeting export standards.
[ ] Number of plants eliminated due to twisted roots, damaged bulbs, and stunted plants.

If the mortality rate increases after rainy days or after increased irrigation, the cause often lies in water and potting drainage.